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baptistbusman
Advanced Member
USA
301 Posts |
 Posted - 10/14/2007 : 7:34:37 PM
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I have had to change almost all of our GMC's with 366's exhaust manifold gaskets.
Well today I found one with a broken bolt. It's broken off even with the manifold.
I have never had to extract a broken bolt in one of these yet.
Whats the best way to do it? There is probably 1/2" of bolt still there. Would heating it up and using a vice grips work?
I just hate to have to drill it and use an extractor. Im afraid I will mess up the threads in the head. |
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raytobe
Advanced Member
USA
293 Posts |
Posted - 10/14/2007 : 8:45:49 PM
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| Before I heat the area around the bolt up a little bit I would put the vise grips on the bolt and spray the thread area down with PB blaster for a good while, while trying to gently tap the grips back and forth to see if it will break free. Works for me sometimes. |
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Wolf0r
Top Member
USA
2181 Posts |
Posted - 10/15/2007 : 2:28:12 PM
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| Get out the stick welder, and weld a nut and washer to the stud. Screw it out. |
“The good thing about science is that it's true whether or not you believe in it.”
Neil deGrasse Tyson |
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Wolf0r
Top Member
USA
2181 Posts |
Posted - 10/15/2007 : 2:33:10 PM
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| I forgot... disconnect the battery and alternator. I usually tack the washer to the nut, then holding it with pliers I fill the hole in the nut with weld attaching it to the broken stud. Some of them take a couple tries. They usually screw right out. |
“The good thing about science is that it's true whether or not you believe in it.”
Neil deGrasse Tyson |
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misterbill
Advanced Member
United States
306 Posts |
Posted - 10/15/2007 : 4:13:43 PM
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I called an International Truck Dealer a few years ago because I had to replace an exhaust manifold on my 7.3. He told me the way that he likes to do it is to torch all of the heads off of the bolts and take the manifold off. He told me to tap on them to loosen the threads and take them out with a small pair of vise grips. The auto parts store sold me a better tool(the name of it escapes me)but the tool mounts on the stud and attaches to a half inch drive wrench.
I am posting this because having the heads off of the studs is not the end of the world-the IH mechanic suggested that I take them off.
I seem to remember asking him about heat and him telling me not to do that. If the manifold is still on the heat would probably break the bolt. |
High School Friend-"Hey! How are you! Well, I guess you can't be doing too well, you're driving a school bus." |
Edited by - misterbill on 10/15/2007 4:35:33 PM |
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ModMech
Top Member
USA
948 Posts |
Posted - 10/15/2007 : 10:18:20 PM
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International has always used Gr8 bolts for their exhaust manifolds, and yes, if you heat them forget it as they will be stuck for good.
The welding a nut on trick works very well, IF you don't have Gr8 bolts, and about 50% of the time if you do. Penetrating oil is your friend, but only AFTER you have welded the nut on lol - don't ask how I know that....
I have a "stud installer/extractor" set fro MAC, has three long rollers in them on ramps, sort of distorts the studs comming out, but works very well if there is enough meat to grip onto - WAY better than any pliers/vice-grip attempts ever did. |
If you want customer service, you NEED an International! |
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IBTMech
Top Member
USA
973 Posts |
Posted - 10/16/2007 : 5:30:41 PM
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Beeswax has worked for me as an alternative to PB blast.
A little gentle warming is enough to sweat it in, especially on rusty manifold studs and capscrews.
The fact that I'm a beekeeper helps get me all the wax I need. |
If it doesn't fit, FORCE it.
If it breaks, well, it needed replacing anyway.
Pullin' wrenches for 45 years. |
Edited by - IBTMech on 10/16/2007 5:32:25 PM |
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misterbill
Advanced Member
United States
306 Posts |
Posted - 10/17/2007 : 06:00:07 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by misterbill
take them out with a small pair of vise grips. The auto parts store sold me a better tool(the name of it escapes me)but the tool mounts on the stud and attaches to a half inch drive wrench.
quote:
Originally posted by ModMech
I have a "stud installer/extractor" set fro MAC, has three long rollers in them on ramps, sort of distorts the studs comming out, but works very well if there is enough meat to grip onto - WAY better than any pliers/vice-grip attempts ever did.
Yup. That's what I have(but not from SmacK)-worked very well-very happy with it. |
High School Friend-"Hey! How are you! Well, I guess you can't be doing too well, you're driving a school bus." |
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NWCROWN
Advanced Member
USA
461 Posts |
Posted - 10/17/2007 : 10:44:32 AM
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| I am not familiar with the 366, but the GM 350's often used cast iron manifolds with grade 5 bolts. Over time the expansion and contraction cycles caused the bolts to eventually become stressed and break. Grade 8 bolts were sold by GM as replacements. I have always used grade 8 when replacing manifolds and have never had problems after that. |
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Exhaust manifold broken bolt
