Joe Hartnett
Advanced Member
USA
359 Posts |
Posted - 01/23/2004 : 4:31:02 PM
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Its not too hard to do provided the previous person didn't overtighten and lubercated the rubber o rings on the oil filters(just like any oil change). Sometimes the drain plug gets inbeded into the plastic washer and limits the amount of wrench you can put on it, but that shouldn't be too much problem and a six point socket might help. Make sure you have a drain pan that can hold 5 gallons and still have enough headroom so that you can handle the bucketfull without spilling. The bottom third of a plastic 55 gal. drum makes a good drain pan, wide enough to catch the drain oil and filter spillage. Loosen the forward oil filter first till it starts to drain and then the rearward one. Fill the new oil filters before installing and lube the gaskets. Add 18 qts. of oil to the crankcase, run the engine and check for leaks, then turn off and recheck and top off the oil. They usually take 19 1/2 qts. according to the meter on my lube dispenser. The bus should be lifted so that the weight is off the spring pins and king pins if possible before greasing. Recently I have been hearing recommendations on greasing the king pins with the weight on and off and in the full right and full left positions. Manual trans. will need to have the throwout bearing and linkage greased. Air brakes will need to have the slack adjusters and s cams lubed. Most steering boxes have a fitting at the sector shaft. Some steering shafts have fittings inside and out. Tie rod ends,drag link, slip yoke and u joints have fittings as well as most rear spring pins in the torque leaf. Good Luck, Joe
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