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International-9.0
Advanced Member
USA
459 Posts |
 Posted - 04/18/2009 : 10:37:38 AM
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We have an 86 366 with the Holley Four Barrel governed carb. I noticed that we aren't getting but two barrels even when wound up at full throttle under load. My guess is that the little diaphragm is broken, but it's impossible to remove the cover or the assembly as there is no space to get to all the screws. Does anybody have any tricks for this other than removing the whole carb?
Removing the carb doesn't seem like it would be that hard. There are 4 bolts that are accessible, would need a new gasket, would need to disconnect choke and throttle cables, and would need to disconnect all rubber tubing (and carefully note where everything plugged in). The trickiest part for me would be making sure all the tubing was hooked up correctly. If I were to remove the whole carb, is there anything else I would need to know? I don't plan on screwing with linkage or any of the controls/governor; I just want to enable the 4 barrels to open as designated originally by Holley.
Oh, I forgot, and I need to remove the fuel supply tube, haha.
Anything else I need to consider here before I get myself into a mess? Thanks for any help. |
Edited by - International-9.0 on 04/18/2009 5:55:55 PM
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wright11
Senior Member
Canada
159 Posts |
Posted - 04/18/2009 : 12:31:06 PM
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| hi there, we have done numerous propane conversions with those carbs, if you need a replacement body minus the base plate let me know, i have 17 bodies |
I'D WOULD RATHER BE CUMMIN THAN STROKIN ! ! ! !
I.C no future!! |
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IBTMech
Top Member
USA
973 Posts |
Posted - 04/18/2009 : 4:00:47 PM
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It doesn't come off that hard and the vacuum diaphragm is most likely your issue.
I've rebuilt a lot of those Holley 2 and 4 bbl carbs. It's been a long time but their nightmare still goes on...... |
If it doesn't fit, FORCE it.
If it breaks, well, it needed replacing anyway.
Pullin' wrenches for 45 years. |
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bwest
Administrator
United States
3820 Posts |
Posted - 04/19/2009 : 4:48:39 PM
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Oh, It's not that much of a nightmare! But before I would remove the carb I would check the advance with a vacuum pump. If it opens the secondaries then you have another problem. If it does not open it then you have a diaphram problem.
Let us know how it turns out. |
Bryan |
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Wolf0r
Top Member
USA
2181 Posts |
Posted - 04/20/2009 : 07:22:28 AM
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| A kit is cheap and comes with the diaphram. If you are having secondary troubles you may want to check the baseplate for wear anyway. |
“The good thing about science is that it's true whether or not you believe in it.”
Neil deGrasse Tyson |
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International-9.0
Advanced Member
USA
459 Posts |
Posted - 04/20/2009 : 6:54:38 PM
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Where's a good source for a kit; people that know what they are talking about? What is the baseplate? I've still got to try a vacuum on the diaphragm with my hand pump, but I had forgotten to bring it the other day.
Jonathan |
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wright11
Senior Member
Canada
159 Posts |
Posted - 04/22/2009 : 06:47:02 AM
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| hi int. the baseplate is the very bottom of the carb assembly, the throttle plates! |
I'D WOULD RATHER BE CUMMIN THAN STROKIN ! ! ! !
I.C no future!! |
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bwest
Administrator
United States
3820 Posts |
Posted - 04/22/2009 : 10:57:09 AM
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| I like to get my kits at NAPA but any automotive parts store should be able to get one for you. |
Bryan |
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Jared
Top Member
USA
1865 Posts |
Posted - 04/22/2009 : 4:29:26 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by bwest
I like to get my kits at NAPA but any automotive parts store should be able to get one for you.
Not to hijack this thread, but I have the same engine and when I shut the ignition off, it kinda still slowly cranks for about 10 seconds. Sounds like its slowly puttering out. Is this a timing thing? |
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jaredg21/sets/ |
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International-9.0
Advanced Member
USA
459 Posts |
Posted - 04/22/2009 : 6:06:13 PM
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| I think that's when it begins to detonate (preignition) and run without spark. I don't know about Holley Carbs, but I've heard some have an "anti-dieseling valve" or something like that which is supposed to stop that from happening. Ours does that when it gets good and hot. I tested the diaphragm and that is the problem for sure. I've got to get the air cleaner off and check the List number on the carb. Then I will go to the Holley site to find the exact diaphragm (as there are several variations) that I need and go to a local parts store here. I have a regular one I do business with and they are a Holley Dealer. I'd never trust them to find the numbers so I am doing the part number research myself. I'm going to see if there is a "kit" that comes with everything I need. |
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wright11
Senior Member
Canada
159 Posts |
Posted - 04/23/2009 : 05:13:00 AM
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| the gm part # for the diaphram is 02037313 it is prob. obsolete now,,hope this helps,cost about 12 bucks |
I'D WOULD RATHER BE CUMMIN THAN STROKIN ! ! ! !
I.C no future!! |
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bwest
Administrator
United States
3820 Posts |
Posted - 04/23/2009 : 05:31:28 AM
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As for the kit, most of them came with two or three different diaphrams.
On the dieseling (running on), This is probably caused by carbon build up in the combustion chamber. What you need to do is after the engine is at operating temp. take the air breather off and pour some "Sea Foam" down into the carburator (primary side) wile it is running. You might even rev it up a little wile you do this. Then after doing that for a few seconds let the engine come back to an idle and dump, very quickly, enough of the product into carb to kill the engine (you might have to use a second can). Let it set for about 5-10 minutes. Then restart. This should help clear the carbon out and prevent run on. If you don't have access to the Sea Foam product try your local Ford dealer. They have a product (I think they still have it) that is used just for this procedure. If this is not available I have used plain water, but it doesn't soak into the carbon when you kill the engine.
Be sure to check the timming as well.
Good luck |
Bryan |
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Jared
Top Member
USA
1865 Posts |
Posted - 04/23/2009 : 07:26:17 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by bwest
As for the kit, most of them came with two or three different diaphrams.
On the dieseling (running on), This is probably caused by carbon build up in the combustion chamber. What you need to do is after the engine is at operating temp. take the air breather off and pour some "Sea Foam" down into the carburator (primary side) wile it is running. You might even rev it up a little wile you do this. Then after doing that for a few seconds let the engine come back to an idle and dump, very quickly, enough of the product into carb to kill the engine (you might have to use a second can). Let it set for about 5-10 minutes. Then restart. This should help clear the carbon out and prevent run on. If you don't have access to the Sea Foam product try your local Ford dealer. They have a product (I think they still have it) that is used just for this procedure. If this is not available I have used plain water, but it doesn't soak into the carbon when you kill the engine.
Be sure to check the timming as well.
Good luck
Thats great information!! Thanks so much. So basically, I dump the Sea Foam into the carb twice? First while the motor is running and revving high, then the second time dump enough seafoam to kill the motor? Correct? |
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jaredg21/sets/ |
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bwest
Administrator
United States
3820 Posts |
Posted - 04/23/2009 : 07:51:43 AM
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Don't rev it too high just enough to keep it running. I can use a half can or less when it is running and then kill it with what is left over. But sometimes you have to "retreat". So for your first time I would just use two cans. Oh yea, make sure you do this out side or with the garage door open. This thing is going to smoke like crazy and there will actually be chunks of carbon come out of the exhaust. 
That being said I would not recomend this to someone with a newer style engine. I can only imagine what this would do to an O2 sensor. |
Bryan |
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Jared
Top Member
USA
1865 Posts |
Posted - 04/23/2009 : 08:38:59 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by bwest
Don't rev it too high just enough to keep it running. I can use a half can or less when it is running and then kill it with what is left over. But sometimes you have to "retreat". So for your first time I would just use two cans. Oh yea, make sure you do this out side or with the garage door open. This thing is going to smoke like crazy and there will actually be chunks of carbon come out of the exhaust.
That being said I would not recomend this to someone with a newer style engine. I can only imagine what this would do to an O2 sensor.
haha, well i will be doing this in my "rv carport" (with the back and front ends open, this will work great):
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/jaredg21/sets/ |
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bwest
Administrator
United States
3820 Posts |
Posted - 04/23/2009 : 09:03:01 AM
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What are you doing with this bus? Looks like a good machine, but I wouldn't wish it on anyone to use as a daily driver.
By the way, does this 366 have manifolds or headders? |
Bryan |
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Jared
Top Member
USA
1865 Posts |
Posted - 04/23/2009 : 6:03:37 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by bwest
What are you doing with this bus? Looks like a good machine, but I wouldn't wish it on anyone to use as a daily driver.
By the way, does this 366 have manifolds or headders?
I bought the bus purely for sentimental reasons. I rode these 1987 Wayne Chevys (including this one) all through grade school and became infatuated by them (sounds silly I know). To me this was a great looking bus while the Carpenters looked cheap and the Thomas's roof line was just plain goofy looking. Most people are the other way around and think Waynes are the odd looking buses. I guess its all what your used to. Anyway, this 366 has stainless steel headers (I happened to replace the drivers side one along with the donut gasket).
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/jaredg21/sets/ |
Edited by - Jared on 04/23/2009 6:08:36 PM |
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bwest
Administrator
United States
3820 Posts |
Posted - 04/23/2009 : 7:50:14 PM
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The reason I ask was that the old manifolds had a bad habit of burning the ends off of the spark plug wires. Glad you have one with the headers.
Again about the deiseling. Don't forget to check the timming as well. That can contribute to your problem. I can remember checking the timming on my old ones but I can't remember if you have to unplug the vacuum advance on that one or if it has another style advance. Either way you need to find out so you can disable the advance when checking the base timming.
Good luck |
Bryan |
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Topic |
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1986 Chevrolet 366
