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valleybusman
Top Member
USA
809 Posts |
 Posted - 06/06/2017 : 07:33:18 AM
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| I have a 2004 RE 300 with the DT 466 . After last winter some issues keep coming up . Bus sits for more than a day and batteries go dead . We use a smart charger and when I hook it up the charger says no voltage . This is after 3 days .Then it fixes the problem and starts charging . The batteries were 3 years old and didn't test to bad so we replaced the batteries . Still going dead .I did a test the old fashioned way and when I touched the negative to the post got quite a spark .If it matters I hooked up a test light . One end on the negative post and touched the negative cable and it lit up This was after bus sat for a few hours with batteries disconnected .My boss recommended putting a disconnect since bus has to go on a long trip out of state . My question is is this a great option ? I tried to test using a fluke 88V tester but can't find the info on how to do this ? Is this a tester I can use ? If so how ? Thanks for any help . |
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Ryan5r
Senior Member
USA
55 Posts |
Posted - 06/06/2017 : 07:39:24 AM
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| I just put a test light between the neg. post and cable. Start pulling fuses one at a time until the light goes out then research what that fuse runs and go from there. If the light don't out with pulling fuses try unhooking the alt. |
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dferrell
Senior Member
102 Posts |
Posted - 06/06/2017 : 08:19:45 AM
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I agree...I start with the alternator first just because I have had so many of them cause a draw.
You can test with your Fluke meter by setting it to DC Amps and put it in series from the battery post to the cable. This will tell you exactly how much the draw is. It sounds like it is a big enough draw that it should read on the amps scale otherwise use the milliamps scale. It is normal for all of the newer computer controlled stuff to have a small draw - a few hundred milliamps, but it sounds like yours is bigger if the batteries drain that fast and you are getting an arc.
The master disconnect will work as well, but it is just a bandaid. There is a problem somewhere. |
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bfaulkner
Senior Member
168 Posts |
Posted - 06/06/2017 : 08:36:20 AM
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| have you seen anything on inside like the radio? Sounds like the symptoms of a stuck White Rogers Relay. |
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valleybusman
Top Member
USA
809 Posts |
Posted - 06/06/2017 : 09:10:07 AM
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| I checked all the switches and accesories . Nothing on . I disconnected the wires on the alternator and am still getting the same issue . My problem is I have never had this kind of issue so I am new at this . |
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torque
Advanced Member
Canada
358 Posts |
Posted - 06/06/2017 : 09:29:35 AM
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Here is the no tools required method I use to start with. When I come across dead batteries in a short time, first thin, feel relays, solenoids, ECM's and alternator, looking for warmth or heat. If you feel nothing warmer or hot, possible batteries dead for a while, boost or charge and do the same again, feel for warm or hot relays, solenoids, ECM's and alternator.
Keep in mind, using a test light can be misleading as there are normal draws as mentioned above and need to see the actual current using an amp meter as mentioned above, then disconnect fuses, relays to look for the draw to go away.
Something that kills the battery overnight, if the batteries are good, is a significant draw that will produce heat and as mentioned above, most common are alternator and the solenoid or relay that provide power to the body. |
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Fastback
Top Member
1500 Posts |
Posted - 06/06/2017 : 10:57:01 AM
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| Electric stop arms/crossing arms that are energized with key off to keep them closed seem to be the main source in a lot of our battery discharge over short time issues. |
Why yes, the ORIGinal CHARGER is a Fastback |
Edited by - Fastback on 06/06/2017 10:57:52 AM |
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valleybusman
Top Member
USA
809 Posts |
Posted - 06/06/2017 : 3:45:00 PM
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| Okay whats a white rogers relay ? |
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RonF
Top Member
867 Posts |
Posted - 06/07/2017 : 02:54:45 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by valleybusman
Okay whats a white rogers relay ?
The master disconnector and noise kill relays. Big round silver or black ones. White rogers is just the name brand. |
US Army retired CMBT |
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td83
Senior Member
83 Posts |
Posted - 06/07/2017 : 08:25:40 AM
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| --the rule of thumb I use is 50milliamps any draw over that theres an issue unplug fuses and see when it drops dramatically then you know where to start, set your multimeter in series with the negative post and cable |
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valleybusman
Top Member
USA
809 Posts |
Posted - 06/07/2017 : 10:52:57 AM
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| Thanks for the info . Yesterday I took the negative cable off the batteries . I then clipped the test light to the negative post . I used the test light on a screw in the body . It lit up . This is the funny part .I washed the engine and chassis so I could work on the bus . Lastnight a driver came in and told me the bus had an oil leak . I told him no way . Went out and sure enough there was a pool under the bus of oil . First thought drain plug and after looking you can see oil coming down between the rubber seal on the shield that protects the pan . So this morning I pulled the pan and where it butts up against the pan was really rusty and a pin hole wore into it . After fixing the pan I fired up bus to check for leaks . I thought I am going to check that batteries for that drainage problem . Guess what I pulled the negative cable and no spark . Hooked up test light no power at negative cable and no power to body . So now I need to know what happened after removing the pans . Maybe wire rubbed thru on those panels ? will let you know . |
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Topic |
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Parasitic battery drain ???
