Read about the Great Fleets Across America
Subscribe

School Bus Fleet Magazine Forums
School Bus Fleet Magazine Forums
Home | Profile | Register | Active Topics | Members | Search | FAQ
 All Forums
 Professional Garage
 Enter Forum: Professional Garage
 Painting Interiors
 New Topic  Reply to Topic
 Printer Friendly
Author Previous Topic Topic Next Topic  

Thomasbus24
Administrator

USA
3345 Posts

Posted - 04/19/2013 :  05:49:15 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hey guys, it's the 83 GMC/Carpenter again.

The interior sidewalls are not the thin galvanized silvery stuff like most of the buses have/had, it has actual steel side sheets. It was painted that tan that Carpenter used in the 80s and the kids and scratched it all to hell.

In the process of taking out the seats to redo the flooring, so now would be the ideal time to paint the sides. I'm just going to do from the bottom of the windows to the floor. Very interested in using rustoleum or similar that I can get color matched with the ole pixel gun.

Anybody ever attempted to shoot rustoleum with a standard auto paint spray gun? How much did you thin the paint? Did it work out ok?

Any and all thoughts greatly appreciated! And, yes, I am going to take a series of before and after pics of this restoration!

RD9000
Senior Member

72 Posts

Posted - 04/19/2013 :  12:46:16 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I repainted the sheetmetal on the walls of my shop a couple years ago. We did very little prep, and we used barn paint with a Titan paint sprayer. It went fantastic. However, your results usually reflect the amount of prep you spend. Most people will tell you that the surface needs to be at least lightly sanded to get better adhesion. I would be prone to use an acrylic enamel, perhaps a single stage automotive paint that you can pick up at stores like O'Reilly's. I don't see why you couldn't use an automotive spray gun. If you really want to go all out- remove the panels and have them soda blasted. Then prime and paint.
Go to Top of Page

dwight
Active Member

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 04/20/2013 :  12:20:40 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Have you considered something like Rustoleum Silver Hammered?

20 SCHOOL BUS FLEET OWNER/OPERATOR (Retired)
Go to Top of Page

dwight
Active Member

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 04/20/2013 :  12:24:07 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Have you considered something like Rustoleum Hammered Silver?

20 SCHOOL BUS FLEET OWNER/OPERATOR (Retired)
Go to Top of Page

Thomasbus24
Administrator

USA
3345 Posts

Posted - 04/20/2013 :  05:21:09 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Prepwork is no problem, I want this done right. This is a restoration, trying to get as close to original was possible, so no silver allowed.
Go to Top of Page

Wolf0r
Top Member

USA
2179 Posts

Posted - 04/22/2013 :  12:50:13 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I like to use a spray gun and the acrylic enamels, vs rattle cans. The finish looks better IMO.Most paint stores should be able to match that color tan. My old 87 carpenter is peeling inside it's green. By the looks of it I don't think they sanded the panels before painting them.

“The good thing about science is that it's true whether or not you believe in it.”
Neil deGrasse Tyson
Go to Top of Page

Thomasbus24
Administrator

USA
3345 Posts

Posted - 04/22/2013 :  12:56:01 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Wolf0r

My old 87 carpenter is peeling inside it's green. By the looks of it I don't think they sanded the panels before painting them.



After some of the scary things I saw taking the seats out yesterday, I am not shocked.

No way this bus was EVER FMVSS compliant!
Go to Top of Page

bwest
Administrator

United States
2324 Posts

Posted - 04/22/2013 :  1:56:11 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I hate to say this, but it is a Carpenter.

Bryan
Go to Top of Page

Thomasbus24
Administrator

USA
3345 Posts

Posted - 04/23/2013 :  02:45:14 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Ain't that the truth!
Go to Top of Page

matts4290
Advanced Member

220 Posts

Posted - 04/23/2013 :  12:14:02 PM  Show Profile  Visit matts4290's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I love rustoleum. In fact all of the matts4290 buses are painted with rustoleum; except the gmc (painted with a metallic auto paint before I bought it) and the sister to my red AA (which is still yellow).
You have to thin it a minimum 3/1 mix, but more realistically a 50/50 mix, or even more solvent than that. They type of solvent depends on temperature, humidity, wind and sunlight exposure.
Rustoleum is a very good quality enamel for the price. It is very thick too, hence the amount of solvent needed to spray it.
For some reason, on the side of the can it says not to use on galvanized metal.
Also, rustoleum is very limited in finding the shade you need.

We can't all be conventional!
http://www.youtube.com/user/matts4290
Go to Top of Page

Thomas Ford 85-16
Top Member

USA
4169 Posts

Posted - 04/23/2013 :  5:53:14 PM  Show Profile  Visit Thomas Ford 85-16's Homepage  Send Thomas Ford 85-16 an AOL message  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Thomasbus24

quote:
Originally posted by Wolf0r

My old 87 carpenter is peeling inside it's green. By the looks of it I don't think they sanded the panels before painting them.



After some of the scary things I saw taking the seats out yesterday, I am not shocked.

No way this bus was EVER FMVSS compliant!


What sorts of things have you seen? This kind of thing interests me.
Go to Top of Page

Thomasbus24
Administrator

USA
3345 Posts

Posted - 04/24/2013 :  06:36:04 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Aside from wiring that passes through metal unprotected, a great number of seats were just screwed to the floor, not bolted...never were.

If there was a cross member in place, rather than drilling though and using a longer bolt, they ran a hex-head sheet metal screw in place. I question the ability of the seats to stay in place during a severe frontal crash.
Go to Top of Page

bwest
Administrator

United States
2324 Posts

Posted - 04/24/2013 :  06:51:32 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Thomasbus24

Aside from wiring that passes through metal unprotected, a great number of seats were just screwed to the floor, not bolted...never were.

If there was a cross member in place, rather than drilling though and using a longer bolt, they ran a hex-head sheet metal screw in place. I question the ability of the seats to stay in place during a severe frontal crash.



LOL, now that you mention it I do remember the carpenters screwing their seats with a lag bolt like you buy at the hardware store. Boy, those were the days weren't they? I'm glad we bailed just prior to that roll over down in Florida that found that the roof bows weren't welded properly. We had just made the trade deal about a month prior and still had possession of the unit. Central States went ahead and took the trade though. I was never so glad to see a bus go. lol

Bryan
Go to Top of Page

Thomasbus24
Administrator

USA
3345 Posts

Posted - 04/24/2013 :  07:26:21 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Yeah, no doubt. I've found a couple of crappy welds on this unit, a couple of broken ones, but for what it's going to be used for, it won't matter.
Go to Top of Page

bwest
Administrator

United States
2324 Posts

Posted - 04/24/2013 :  10:01:59 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Yeah, if you're not using it for school kids you're good. Although, I wouldn't want to be in it. lol

Bryan
Go to Top of Page

Thomasbus24
Administrator

USA
3345 Posts

Posted - 04/24/2013 :  11:31:04 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
They are perfectly safe if you keep the rubber side down :)
Go to Top of Page

Wolf0r
Top Member

USA
2179 Posts

Posted - 04/24/2013 :  1:33:44 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
My carpenter seats had one lag screw and one bolt/nut on each leg. I think they were all like that. I'm just using it for a storage shed and storm shelter now.

“The good thing about science is that it's true whether or not you believe in it.”
Neil deGrasse Tyson
Go to Top of Page

Trailboss
Senior Member

United States
149 Posts

Posted - 04/29/2013 :  03:47:00 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I can remember when all manufactures used lag bolts to hold down the seats and no padding around the metal frames. I also remember seeing a school bus in our area that had plastic bench
seats. The contractor had so much trouble with seats being cut up he found these plastic seats somewhere and installed them.
Go to Top of Page

dwight
Active Member

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 04/29/2013 :  04:19:26 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I had Superiors from 1947 to 1974 and Blue Birds from 1962 to 1997.
The passenger bus seats were all bolted thru the floor with washers and nuts. I did see some drivers seats with lag screws. The plastic seats were an option and also available with a pad across the top.

20 SCHOOL BUS FLEET OWNER/OPERATOR (Retired)
Go to Top of Page

hardis
New Member

2 Posts

Posted - 07/18/2013 :  8:26:13 PM  Show Profile  Visit hardis's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Most people will tell you that the surface needs to be at least lightly sanded to get better adhesion. I would be prone to use an acrylic enamel, perhaps a single stage automotive paint that you can pick up at stores like O'Reilly's.

I like video games and online games,the site is www.rsvalley.com !
Go to Top of Page
  Previous Topic Topic Next Topic  
 New Topic  Reply to Topic
 Printer Friendly
Jump To:
 


School Bus Fleet Magazine Forums © 2013 School Bus Fleet Magazine Go To Top Of Page
This page was generated in 0.19 seconds. Snitz Forums 2000