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Thomasbus24
Administrator
USA
4547 Posts |
 Posted - 04/19/2013 : 05:49:15 AM
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Hey guys, it's the 83 GMC/Carpenter again.
The interior sidewalls are not the thin galvanized silvery stuff like most of the buses have/had, it has actual steel side sheets. It was painted that tan that Carpenter used in the 80s and the kids and scratched it all to hell.
In the process of taking out the seats to redo the flooring, so now would be the ideal time to paint the sides. I'm just going to do from the bottom of the windows to the floor. Very interested in using rustoleum or similar that I can get color matched with the ole pixel gun.
Anybody ever attempted to shoot rustoleum with a standard auto paint spray gun? How much did you thin the paint? Did it work out ok?
Any and all thoughts greatly appreciated! And, yes, I am going to take a series of before and after pics of this restoration! |
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RD9000
Senior Member
72 Posts |
Posted - 04/19/2013 : 12:46:16 PM
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| I repainted the sheetmetal on the walls of my shop a couple years ago. We did very little prep, and we used barn paint with a Titan paint sprayer. It went fantastic. However, your results usually reflect the amount of prep you spend. Most people will tell you that the surface needs to be at least lightly sanded to get better adhesion. I would be prone to use an acrylic enamel, perhaps a single stage automotive paint that you can pick up at stores like O'Reilly's. I don't see why you couldn't use an automotive spray gun. If you really want to go all out- remove the panels and have them soda blasted. Then prime and paint. |
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dwight
Senior Member
USA
58 Posts |
Posted - 04/20/2013 : 12:20:40 AM
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| Have you considered something like Rustoleum Silver Hammered? |
20 SCHOOL BUS FLEET OWNER/OPERATOR (Retired) |
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dwight
Senior Member
USA
58 Posts |
Posted - 04/20/2013 : 12:24:07 AM
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| Have you considered something like Rustoleum Hammered Silver? |
20 SCHOOL BUS FLEET OWNER/OPERATOR (Retired) |
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Thomasbus24
Administrator
USA
4547 Posts |
Posted - 04/20/2013 : 05:21:09 AM
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| Prepwork is no problem, I want this done right. This is a restoration, trying to get as close to original was possible, so no silver allowed. |
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Wolf0r
Top Member
USA
2181 Posts |
Posted - 04/22/2013 : 12:50:13 PM
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| I like to use a spray gun and the acrylic enamels, vs rattle cans. The finish looks better IMO.Most paint stores should be able to match that color tan. My old 87 carpenter is peeling inside it's green. By the looks of it I don't think they sanded the panels before painting them. |
“The good thing about science is that it's true whether or not you believe in it.”
Neil deGrasse Tyson |
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Thomasbus24
Administrator
USA
4547 Posts |
Posted - 04/22/2013 : 12:56:01 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by Wolf0r
My old 87 carpenter is peeling inside it's green. By the looks of it I don't think they sanded the panels before painting them.
After some of the scary things I saw taking the seats out yesterday, I am not shocked.
No way this bus was EVER FMVSS compliant! |
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bwest
Administrator
United States
3820 Posts |
Posted - 04/22/2013 : 1:56:11 PM
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| I hate to say this, but it is a Carpenter. |
Bryan |
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Thomasbus24
Administrator
USA
4547 Posts |
Posted - 04/23/2013 : 02:45:14 AM
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| Ain't that the truth! |
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matts4290
Advanced Member
224 Posts |
Posted - 04/23/2013 : 12:14:02 PM
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I love rustoleum. In fact all of the matts4290 buses are painted with rustoleum; except the gmc (painted with a metallic auto paint before I bought it) and the sister to my red AA (which is still yellow).
You have to thin it a minimum 3/1 mix, but more realistically a 50/50 mix, or even more solvent than that. They type of solvent depends on temperature, humidity, wind and sunlight exposure.
Rustoleum is a very good quality enamel for the price. It is very thick too, hence the amount of solvent needed to spray it.
For some reason, on the side of the can it says not to use on galvanized metal.
Also, rustoleum is very limited in finding the shade you need. |
We can't all be conventional!
http://www.youtube.com/user/matts4290 |
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Thomas Ford 85-16
Top Member
USA
4177 Posts |
Posted - 04/23/2013 : 5:53:14 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by Thomasbus24
quote:
Originally posted by Wolf0r
My old 87 carpenter is peeling inside it's green. By the looks of it I don't think they sanded the panels before painting them.
After some of the scary things I saw taking the seats out yesterday, I am not shocked.
No way this bus was EVER FMVSS compliant!
What sorts of things have you seen? This kind of thing interests me. |
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Thomasbus24
Administrator
USA
4547 Posts |
Posted - 04/24/2013 : 06:36:04 AM
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Aside from wiring that passes through metal unprotected, a great number of seats were just screwed to the floor, not bolted...never were.
If there was a cross member in place, rather than drilling though and using a longer bolt, they ran a hex-head sheet metal screw in place. I question the ability of the seats to stay in place during a severe frontal crash. |
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bwest
Administrator
United States
3820 Posts |
Posted - 04/24/2013 : 06:51:32 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by Thomasbus24
Aside from wiring that passes through metal unprotected, a great number of seats were just screwed to the floor, not bolted...never were.
If there was a cross member in place, rather than drilling though and using a longer bolt, they ran a hex-head sheet metal screw in place. I question the ability of the seats to stay in place during a severe frontal crash.
LOL, now that you mention it I do remember the carpenters screwing their seats with a lag bolt like you buy at the hardware store. Boy, those were the days weren't they?  I'm glad we bailed just prior to that roll over down in Florida that found that the roof bows weren't welded properly. We had just made the trade deal about a month prior and still had possession of the unit. Central States went ahead and took the trade though. I was never so glad to see a bus go. lol |
Bryan |
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Thomasbus24
Administrator
USA
4547 Posts |
Posted - 04/24/2013 : 07:26:21 AM
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| Yeah, no doubt. I've found a couple of crappy welds on this unit, a couple of broken ones, but for what it's going to be used for, it won't matter. |
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bwest
Administrator
United States
3820 Posts |
Posted - 04/24/2013 : 10:01:59 AM
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| Yeah, if you're not using it for school kids you're good. Although, I wouldn't want to be in it. lol |
Bryan |
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Thomasbus24
Administrator
USA
4547 Posts |
Posted - 04/24/2013 : 11:31:04 AM
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| They are perfectly safe if you keep the rubber side down :) |
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Wolf0r
Top Member
USA
2181 Posts |
Posted - 04/24/2013 : 1:33:44 PM
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| My carpenter seats had one lag screw and one bolt/nut on each leg. I think they were all like that. I'm just using it for a storage shed and storm shelter now. |
“The good thing about science is that it's true whether or not you believe in it.”
Neil deGrasse Tyson |
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Trailboss
Senior Member
United States
196 Posts |
Posted - 04/29/2013 : 03:47:00 AM
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I can remember when all manufactures used lag bolts to hold down the seats and no padding around the metal frames. I also remember seeing a school bus in our area that had plastic bench
seats. The contractor had so much trouble with seats being cut up he found these plastic seats somewhere and installed them. |
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dwight
Senior Member
USA
58 Posts |
Posted - 04/29/2013 : 04:19:26 AM
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I had Superiors from 1947 to 1974 and Blue Birds from 1962 to 1997.
The passenger bus seats were all bolted thru the floor with washers and nuts. I did see some drivers seats with lag screws. The plastic seats were an option and also available with a pad across the top. |
20 SCHOOL BUS FLEET OWNER/OPERATOR (Retired) |
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hardis
New Member
2 Posts |
Posted - 07/18/2013 : 8:26:13 PM
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| Most people will tell you that the surface needs to be at least lightly sanded to get better adhesion. I would be prone to use an acrylic enamel, perhaps a single stage automotive paint that you can pick up at stores like O'Reilly's. |
I like video games and online games,the site is www.rsvalley.com ! |
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Painting Interiors
