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Abetterchimney
Active Member

27 Posts

Posted - 04/24/2012 :  5:21:46 PM  Show Profile  Visit Abetterchimney's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hello again, The bus has cracked another fuse........Has anyone ever heard of these fuses cracking (not blowing just a hairline crack at the base of the fuse) Any help would be great i can replace the fuse and it will run fine for a while but i am trying to figure out why it keeps cracking the fuses.

Edited by - Abetterchimney on 04/24/2012 6:22:08 PM

Trailboss
Senior Member

United States
196 Posts

Posted - 04/25/2012 :  03:46:02 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Is it the little long glass type fuse or the type with the prongs that stick in. Try a breaker with the same amps they make them for either type.
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yellowbusjoe
Active Member

16 Posts

Posted - 04/25/2012 :  07:43:18 AM  Show Profile  Visit yellowbusjoe's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Had one bus with same problem. It was towed in, and found the broken fuse by accident. I like the idea of a cb there, although I wonder if it would fit under the cover.
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Abetterchimney
Active Member

27 Posts

Posted - 04/25/2012 :  09:27:40 AM  Show Profile  Visit Abetterchimney's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Just spoke with a tech at thomas bus and he gave me some ideas to try for the fuse cracking will try and let you guys know what i come up with
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Offroadwolf
Active Member

41 Posts

Posted - 04/26/2012 :  08:32:07 AM  Show Profile  Visit Offroadwolf's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I have only run into a similar case one time. I was a having an issue of fuses failing on one circuit. The glass fuse appeared OK but was open when ohmed out. I checked the circuit which was protected by a 10amp fuse. Under peak load at operating temperature the circuit was pulling 9.7 amps. This is under ten but I could not find what the actual threshold of a fuse is and when does it actually open. It would work fine in the shop but when bouncing around on the road I was loosing the fuse. I did run a resetable 10amp circuit breaker and gave it a good road test. The breaker held. But I investgated a little further and found an extra light added to the circuit which was not a factory item. Put the light on its own circuit and the load dropped to 7.2 amps. Problem solved. Have you measured the amperage thats going through your fuse? You may have a case of the amperage being too close to the fuse failure point. If the amperage seems real close to the fuse limit investiagte why. Another question is what circuit is this fuse on? And have any extra options been added to the bus?
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Abetterchimney
Active Member

27 Posts

Posted - 04/26/2012 :  1:43:43 PM  Show Profile  Visit Abetterchimney's Homepage  Reply with Quote
It is on the second fuse block on the driver side fender When this fuse cracks it causes the bus to think it does not have a transmission and the bus will go into range inhibit mode with the check engine light on. And it is all because of the hair line crack in the fuse. The guy at thomas said they did have a bunch of bad 10 amp fuses a few years back and maybe that is what it is but i am at a loss.
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baptistbusman1
Senior Member

USA
175 Posts

Posted - 04/26/2012 :  5:10:42 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
well it could have a loose terminal were the fuse is plugging into, if the wire is moving around when the bus is bouncing it could work the fuse back and forth and cause a break.

As far as that circuit, I had a few c2s blow that fuse because of the am/fm radio wiring harness had bare wires touching the radio mounting bracket. There is a razor sharp edge on that bracket that eats the insulation off the wires.

I was formally Baptistbusman. However, I lost my password, and had not updated my email address.

Here is a link to my old posts. http://www.schoolbusfleet.com/forum/search.asp?mode=DoIt&MEMBER_ID=1846
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