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mhwrench
New Member
5 Posts |
 Posted - 04/04/2012 : 8:05:19 PM
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| anyone know where to get specs. or manuals? my local dealer says thst they are not producing manuals and you have to subscribe to an online tech support to get info. I need fuel psi. (I assume 60+like the non EGR models) and fuel sys diagram. New filter, cleaned strainer, new hand primer pump, new fuel line seals, but hard start cold like loss of prime unless it is warm or has been plugged in. 800 psi. high oil psi. while cranking??? |
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willism
Advanced Member
United States
250 Posts |
Posted - 04/05/2012 : 05:14:48 AM
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| one quick thing to check is the lower cap on the fuel filter housing it sometimes gets a pinhole right next to the heater plug in |
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willism
Advanced Member
United States
250 Posts |
Posted - 04/05/2012 : 06:15:23 AM
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| Forgot to ask but do you have service max and able to run hard start no start it could also be a icp sensor having a run on those here lately |
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IBTMech
Top Member
USA
973 Posts |
Posted - 04/05/2012 : 5:50:44 PM
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Could be a low voltage to the ECM situation. It may not set a code until you get an unexplained reset code, 626 I think. Load test those batteries and check for voltage drops across the ECM power fuses.
And, you can buy manuals. You aren't talking to the right person. Search Google. |
If it doesn't fit, FORCE it.
If it breaks, well, it needed replacing anyway.
Pullin' wrenches for 45 years. |
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mhwrench
New Member
5 Posts |
Posted - 04/05/2012 : 7:02:58 PM
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thanks for helping guys. I do not have Service Max. just a Genesis (otc) reader. It gives data screen, codes, etc. Local dealer said something about a connection at battery box. cleaned connections, load tested batts...ok. it only has two though and when it is cold and the intake heater has been on, sometimes it cranks slow. when it starts after a long cranking cycle, it runs slow rpm, is quiet, no smoke, and eventually cleans up. what is the device behind the batt box that looks like an ecm? for now , I put a new lift pump on because the old one was running 38 psi at high idle and 22 or so at idle. thanks again and I will try to source manuals
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IBTMech
Top Member
USA
973 Posts |
Posted - 04/06/2012 : 08:27:01 AM
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60+- psi is what you should see for fuel pressure. If it's less than that, the first thing I inspect is the check valve on top of the 'rock catcher'......(fuel strainer).
Any cracks or defects in that rubber ball will cause a loss of fuel pressure. |
If it doesn't fit, FORCE it.
If it breaks, well, it needed replacing anyway.
Pullin' wrenches for 45 years. |
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mhwrench
New Member
5 Posts |
Posted - 04/06/2012 : 09:23:19 AM
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| OK, installed new lift pump last night. This now makes for a new pump, new hand primer pump, new fuel line seals, new filter. It was about 30 degrees this morning and truck not plugged in. It started soon after cranking but I still have the run slow, run quiet, no smoke , but it did speed up clean up sooner than it used to. It tried to run so quickly that I think I have repaired the fuel system. Now,this battery voltage thing. It makes sense for how it is running at start up but why will it run so well at start up when it is plugged in?? Just because it is warmer it requires less fuel to run well?? Does the low voltage thing make the injectors put out less fuel at start up only?? |
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mhwrench
New Member
5 Posts |
Posted - 05/04/2012 : 8:53:55 PM
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| OK guys. Still not fixed. Just spent 1300.oo at local IHC dealership and they didn't fix it either. Here is what we know. New low pressure fuel pump, primer pump, filter, strainer, fuel line seals, cleaned all battery conections, fuses, B+ wire to ECM , ECM connections checked with breakout tee, cleaned re-greased. Put auxillary fuel system on overnight still no cold start in the A.M. Air intake heater OK, EOT,ECT,IAT sensors checked with freon and all respond. They claim no updates are needed for ecm. all six injectors replaced less than six months ago. 600 psi heui while cranking. 60 psi fuel while cranking, new CMP sensor. Blowby is 1.25hg idle 6.25hg high idle (Under 8.5 is acceptable). So when it does start cold, it runs about 300 rpm, it is quiet(no miss or fuel knock) but no power and no throttle response. runs like this for 45 seconds to 1.5 minutes. idle raises to 700 it gets louder(normal) runs fine. this situation is under 40 deg and not plugged in. 45 deg or higher or plugged in and colder it starts fine. Does anyone know about timing or pulsewidths needing to be different due to temp? could the ecm not be adjusting for what the water and ambient temp sensors are sending to ecm about cold outside conditions? any experience or advice would be appreciated |
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mastertech
Advanced Member
274 Posts |
Posted - 05/07/2012 : 07:43:30 AM
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| I would check fuel tank suction hose restriction as those are notorious for broken fuel baffles raising havoc with fuel pressure. It might not be the problem but something quick and easy to check. |
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willism
Advanced Member
United States
250 Posts |
Posted - 05/07/2012 : 09:05:18 AM
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| I agree with mastertech got one we have been fighting a similar problem as yours think i got it pinpointed down to tank issue. Has no start but good fuel pressure take the line off the back of the filter housing and put it back on and the bus runs fine. What i think is its got pressure but no flow and there is something sucked up against the pick up line. Should find out shortly whats going on.... |
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willism
Advanced Member
United States
250 Posts |
Posted - 05/09/2012 : 11:40:53 AM
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Drained tank on ours got some crud out of it but no broken baffles suction tube was clean blew main line out. Parts changed on this was fuel pump both caps on fuel filter housing fuel pressure regulator. It wont start come monday morning unless you pull the fuel line off the back of the filter housing and reconnect and starts up during the week it will spit and sputter once or twice the whole day then run fine. All the pressures look fine cranking. Today after we cleaned the tank yesterday and gave it back to the driver it ran fine am route now it spit and sputtered and died I switched her out and its running fine for me pulled codes and now has a DTC 372 EFP is below normal operating range. So must be sucking air someplace anyone got any ideas?
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mastertech
Advanced Member
274 Posts |
Posted - 05/13/2012 : 09:31:17 AM
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| To check for broken baffles you just remove the fuel sending unit and look down the hole. Since the plate will lie flat on the bottom of the tank it is hard to see. If you reach down with a magnetic pickup tool you can pick the broken plate up and move it around. Its easy to miss just by looking down with a flashilight. It will slide around and block off the pickup when turning sharp corners or hitting the brakes which makes it a wierd inttermitant problem. |
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2007 dt 466 egr
