I have been writing and working on a 2004 DT 466 E in a fe 300 . Well I got it running and it was running good .The only problem was the engine warning light would come on and it would dog down . I thought engine oil to thin . So I serviced it . Went to start it and it ran like crap . I would have to rev it it up to keep it running . Injectors fine , compression great . It died and I couldn't get it started again. Brought the laptop out and had 534 and a 525 code . Said my IDM relay was low on the power . Okay which relay controls the IDM . and why after serviced it did all this happen ? I am going to check the wires in he battery box this morning . So which wires in the battery box controls the IDM ? We had a new IDM installed and reprogarmed when all this started .This has really been a learning curve for me . Thanks
Edited by - valleybusman on 03/07/2016 07:35:59 AM
You should be looking for a two or three fuse connector in the battery compartment, check those and the connectors that go along with those. Trace that harness and check ALL connection in it. physically take the fuse out and the connectors apart and look for melted plastic. You find that your find that problem.
Had similar issues and I ended up replacing all my battery box IDM power leads with maxi fuses. Solved my problems. Think I read to do that somewhere on here...
Okay I went out and pulled all the relays and fuses . I checked the power at all relays . When the wires come off the battery to the relay . I have just under 12 volts on all . When I check the ignition side of the relay . I have under 3 volts . My thinking is the ignition switch is not supplying enough power to energize the coil in the relay . Am I right ? I can hear a click but sounds kind of weak .What are the thoughts on my suspicions ? Tgut how did you do your splicing of the fuses ? Would I need to solder wires ?
I soldered and followed with a heat shrink sleeve since I was in the battery box and I'm trying to avoid future corrosion issues as long as possible. A voltage drop test on both sides of your ignition switch should confirm or rule out your suspicion. Let us know what you find. In my experience these entire circuits are suspect at best with several weak spots along the route!
I can speak for the 2004 EGR motor and not the DT466E which is a previous model engine. On the EGR Engine, Key power is sent to the ECM and IDM which turns them on by completing the ground circuits to the ECM and IDM relays located in front of the left headlight. The relays latch and then completely power up the ECM and IDM.
On the 2005 FE buses the power goes from the battery thru the 3 fuses in the battery box (ECM power, IDM power and TCU power). The wires go next to the starter motor where there is another connector that has been known to go bad then up to the relays behind the headlight. you should have 12V at the relays on the bigger wires. (in 2005 they ran a red with orange tracer 12 gauge wire from the battery directly to the ECM in its own poly loom). Check voltage going to the ECM and IDM. check for loose connections at the ECM and IDM connectors. Check for a IDM logic power circuit and if you have one make sure it has battery voltage.
A 523 DTC is definitely low voltage and a 525 is a IDM fault (not repairable). On the 2004 EGR motors, low battery voltage will slowly take out the performance of the IDM bottom board. It is almost impossible to test while it is in the vehicle especially on a FE bus. The IDM bottom board can be replaced separately for about $150.00 and no reprogramming of the ECM / IDM is needed. So check your voltages and all your connections. We have been slowly replacing our Bottom boards on our IDM assemblies and have noticed better performance once they have been replaced. Look at it as a muscle side (48V) of the IDM module. Hope it helps you some. If I find some time i'll call you at work and talk to you about it more.
Well guys Not sure what happened . I got it running and it died and it was hard to start . I got to thinking that it wanted to start but just wouldn't take off . It sounded like it wasn't getting enough fuel . So I took a look at all the lines around the fuel filter housing . Then I still didn't see any fuel and as I got down in there the inlet line fitting I saw a gap . The fingers weren't locked on the housing . After all the air was bled off it smoothed out and gained power . Ran great . I had checked all the wires in the battery box and pulled all the wire loom off and they looked great . I had a bus down and I used all the relays for the computer feeds . My computer died so I couldn't see if the codes were still there . This bus is an FE so I can't retrieve using the cruise control . I think it's fixed . Took it out for some long drives and ran great !Thanks for all the help here !!!
Figure this one out
Posted - 03/07/2016 : 07:28:26 AM
