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Wrench Man
New Member
1 Posts |
Posted - 03/24/2013 : 10:30:36 AM
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We are having a problem with a 2007 International VT365 that overheats on a long pull. It will peg the temp guage and burb water from the surge tank.It will cool back down to normal operating temperture within a minute. This may only happen one time a day and run and operate correctly the rest of the time. EGR cooler has been replaced along with: oil cooler,thermostat,water pump,cap and fan clutch. This is a problem currently on three vehicles. Has anyone else had this problem? We have now replaced radiator with new but are still having the same problem. |
Edited by - Wrench Man on 04/02/2013 1:17:58 PM
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Bassman
Top Member
USA
558 Posts |
Posted - 03/24/2013 : 1:41:30 PM
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VT365 Radiators clog from the top down causing the fan clutch to not kick in due to the airflow through the radiator being too cool. Test it this way....pull a long hill flat out and pull over to the side of the road and get out and feel the top 3 inches of the radiator fins through the grill with your fingers. If they are cool, your radiator has restricted tubes at the top. Our radiator company can only clean a low percentage of them. You can get cheaper replacements aftermarket than through IH. I am not sure of the part number. |
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IBTMech
Top Member
USA
973 Posts |
Posted - 03/25/2013 : 6:23:18 PM
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Punch the IH part number into NAPA Prolink and see what's available. I've bought radiators for 3800s from them at half the cost. |
If it doesn't fit, FORCE it. If it breaks, well, it needed replacing anyway. Pullin' wrenches for 45 years. |
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mastertech
Advanced Member
274 Posts |
Posted - 11/22/2013 : 09:01:27 AM
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I have pretty much the same bus with the same problem. Did you ever figure it out? Ive replaced everything you did. Ive also noticed it heats up much faster than any other bus. The thermostat housing and water pump housing itself will be at 180 degrees but if you check the block with infrared gun it will be 230 just inches away. The oil will also be extremely hot like around 275 and coolant will not flow through the heater hoses. Its like the water pump is just not turning. The impellar is tight on the shaft. Its gotten progressively worse . Before it would overheat on the first opening of the thermostat and run fine the rest of the day but not it just keeps climbing. Coolant level is normal. |
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bwest
Administrator
United States
3820 Posts |
Posted - 11/22/2013 : 10:55:42 AM
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quote: Originally posted by mastertech
I have pretty much the same bus with the same problem. Did you ever figure it out? Ive replaced everything you did. Ive also noticed it heats up much faster than any other bus. The thermostat housing and water pump housing itself will be at 180 degrees but if you check the block with infrared gun it will be 230 just inches away. The oil will also be extremely hot like around 275 and coolant will not flow through the heater hoses. Its like the water pump is just not turning. The impellar is tight on the shaft. Its gotten progressively worse . Before it would overheat on the first opening of the thermostat and run fine the rest of the day but not it just keeps climbing. Coolant level is normal.
I missed this one back in march. I was thinking the same thing as you, that being the water pump. There has to be a restriction somewhere. Inlet to the water pump clear? |
Bryan |
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mastertech
Advanced Member
274 Posts |
Posted - 11/22/2013 : 2:09:35 PM
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This is the only vt365 Ive ever dealt with that didnt have the uptime installed way back when. It has had a series of overheating events from a head gasket failure and several blown egr coolers. I did arp head studs about a year and a half ago along with the uptime. I had the heads resurfaced and pressure tested back then. I was hoping it was a bad water pump but its tight as can be. My money is on a crack in the heads or leaking compression into an injector cup or something. I wish I would have put a gauge in the deareation hose before taking the front cover off. I see a pair of heads in the immediate future. |
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bwest
Administrator
United States
3820 Posts |
Posted - 11/22/2013 : 5:28:37 PM
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quote: Originally posted by mastertech
This is the only vt365 Ive ever dealt with that didnt have the uptime installed way back when. It has had a series of overheating events from a head gasket failure and several blown egr coolers. I did arp head studs about a year and a half ago along with the uptime. I had the heads resurfaced and pressure tested back then. I was hoping it was a bad water pump but its tight as can be. My money is on a crack in the heads or leaking compression into an injector cup or something. I wish I would have put a gauge in the deareation hose before taking the front cover off. I see a pair of heads in the immediate future.
Or trade. |
Bryan |
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toolmantin
New Member
2 Posts |
Posted - 03/06/2015 : 1:13:55 PM
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quote: Originally posted by Bassman
VT365 Radiators clog from the top down causing the fan clutch to not kick in due to the airflow through the radiator being too cool. Test it this way....pull a long hill flat out and pull over to the side of the road and get out and feel the top 3 inches of the radiator fins through the grill with your fingers. If they are cool, your radiator has restricted tubes at the top. Our radiator company can only clean a low percentage of them. You can get cheaper replacements aftermarket than through IH. I am not sure of the part number.
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toolmantin
New Member
2 Posts |
Posted - 03/06/2015 : 1:18:36 PM
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im new here and having the same issue ,what ever did you do to fix it, this truck I have found out is ok at -10c and above I have spent 40 hrs on it and app 500k in test drives new rad ,fan hub,thermostat 10lb cap and by the way its been doing it for a year now so I don't think there is a head gasket problem |
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mastertech
Advanced Member
274 Posts |
Posted - 03/08/2015 : 09:33:31 AM
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If it never had the head bolts replaced and retorqued Id say the head gaskets are out. Do the running full load pressure test on the cooling system and it will show if they are bad . |
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