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 Wabco HPB e-brake cable connector
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CISDbusman
Advanced Member

306 Posts

Posted - 01/25/2016 :  12:52:06 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I swore I read in a thread here that someone had found a replacement connector/link that goes between the two cables that operate the diff mounted e-brake on the newer IC's.

I have read through threads till my eyes hurt and can't find who posted it.

I think one of my pumps has lost prime. Brake pressure light on dash is on. I get a loaded pump noise then after it pressures up I still have a whirling noise that reminds me of just the motor turning with no load. I am going to have to cut a cable or the connector to get a bus in the shop and would much rather it be the connector.

Any help is greatly appreciated!!!

BrokenBus
Active Member

10 Posts

Posted - 01/25/2016 :  1:14:08 PM  Show Profile  Visit BrokenBus's Homepage  Reply with Quote
The replacement connector comes with a new cable, but there should be some alternatives to cutting it. First off, do you have the Meritor brake software? If so, have you tried to release the parking brake with the laptop? If that's not an option, you can either release tension by turning the star adjuster on the drum in reverse, or possibly by unscrewing the brake cable out of the motor on the frame rail.
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valleybusman
Top Member

USA
804 Posts

Posted - 01/25/2016 :  8:27:33 PM  Show Profile  Send valleybusman an AOL message  Reply with Quote
you shouldn't try backing off any of the cables . They are under a lot of pressure from the hydraulic pump . If you do try and back them off . They just keep adding tension .There are a couple sensors on the master cylinder that control the brakes . I have seen the sensor switch on the bottom off the master get rusty and jammed up . Try cleaning that.
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earl1412
Senior Member

101 Posts

Posted - 02/08/2016 :  3:07:29 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Please look at the GM cable connector # 15714661, I believe that will work for you, around $3.00
earl
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mastertech
Advanced Member

274 Posts

Posted - 02/10/2016 :  1:27:44 PM  Show Profile  Visit mastertech's Homepage  Reply with Quote
There is only tension on the cables when the brake is engaged. Its a lot and you will rip the threads out of the end of the sahr can if you try to unscrew it . Ive changed dozens of those cables from corrosion and just remove and save the old connectors when we replace them. Just a tip when replacing a cable just go ahead and replace the shoes,adjusters,both cables. Most all of that stuff will all be bad or soon to be bad at the same time.
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CISDbusman
Advanced Member

306 Posts

Posted - 03/01/2016 :  07:00:00 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I ordered a set of connectors for GM products Dorman Help #21126 and the larger "U" shaped connector seems to be doing the job. For less than 3 dollars it was a gamble that paid off.

I can't say for sure that this is the one I used out of the kit but if so it is sold by itself as Dorman 484-223 C-Style Brake Cable Connector.

Hope this helps someone else as we shouldn't have to buy a high dollar cable when all that is needed is a 3 dollar connector. Ugh!!!
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CISDbusman
Advanced Member

306 Posts

Posted - 03/01/2016 :  07:02:51 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by valleybusman

you shouldn't try backing off any of the cables . They are under a lot of pressure from the hydraulic pump . If you do try and back them off . They just keep adding tension .There are a couple sensors on the master cylinder that control the brakes . I have seen the sensor switch on the bottom off the master get rusty and jammed up . Try cleaning that.



I don't have the Meritor software.. Only option I have found is to separate the connector to get it off the city street or county road or in the shop from the lot.
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CISDbusman
Advanced Member

306 Posts

Posted - 03/01/2016 :  07:05:21 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by mastertech

There is only tension on the cables when the brake is engaged. Its a lot and you will rip the threads out of the end of the sahr can if you try to unscrew it . Ive changed dozens of those cables from corrosion and just remove and save the old connectors when we replace them. Just a tip when replacing a cable just go ahead and replace the shoes,adjusters,both cables. Most all of that stuff will all be bad or soon to be bad at the same time.



I think it is the tubular one (like the OEM one)in the kit I ordered mentioned below but it is to small in diameter to work with the cables.

Thanks though!!
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earl1412
Senior Member

101 Posts

Posted - 03/03/2016 :  1:31:28 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I think it is the tubular one (like the OEM one)in the kit I ordered mentioned below but it is to small in diameter to work with the cables.

Thanks though!!
[/quote]
You may want to look at Dorman # 21125 for a connector that will work, it is more robust than the 'C' style from the 21126 kit.
Just a thought.
earl
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CISDbusman
Advanced Member

306 Posts

Posted - 03/04/2016 :  2:19:31 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by earl1412

I think it is the tubular one (like the OEM one)in the kit I ordered mentioned below but it is to small in diameter to work with the cables.

Thanks though!!


You may want to look at Dorman # 21125 for a connector that will work, it is more robust than the 'C' style from the 21126 kit.
Just a thought.
earl
[/quote]

I'll order that one for a sister bus when the time comes.....

Thanks!!!
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