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sambrutay
Advanced Member

United States
217 Posts

Posted - 07/01/2013 :  07:57:16 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Just checking to see if everyone is having the same Mickey Mouse problems as we are o 2011 thru current C2 school buses.
Grill mounting bolts falling out.
Hoods cracking @ cross view fender mount brackets
Battery box trim cracking
Paint peeling from cowl panel
Modesty panels secured to 1/8" Luan sheeting (always loose or kicked out.
Coolant leaks at step well and rear heaters
Transmission leaks @ trans cooler fittings at the radiator
Radiators leaking (under 2 years old)

I'm sure there’s a few more I have forgotten.

Bassman
Top Member

USA
505 Posts

Posted - 07/01/2013 :  09:36:38 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
On the radiators, the mfg of the radiators is providing additional assistance up to a certain date. Check with your dealer. They redesigned the tanks and the mounting to fix premature failures. We have been getting radiators complete with brackets and a serious discounted price until they get to a certain date (like 4 years old or so). Then, when you have to buy your radiators, just get the radiator itself without the brackets and you will save $$$'s. You will however need a couple 5/16 by 4" bolts/nut's and 2 sleeves like the ones in the top mounts for the newly designed bottom mounts. And you need to drill out the brackets to fit the new design tanks.

Also, let me know if you have Mercedes engines with air compressors. There is a campaign coming for which we have a great procedure developed to prevent problems in the meantime.

We have had some of the problems you listed.....but at least they don't have VT365's in them!!!!
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willism
Senior Member

United States
129 Posts

Posted - 07/01/2013 :  09:37:09 AM  Show Profile  Visit willism's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Radiators leaking on all 6 we got. I think the fan has to be a issue here sounds like a jet engine when it kicks in has to be flexing the core...
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tigger2
Advanced Member

USA
268 Posts

Posted - 07/02/2013 :  07:37:31 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
All of the above except for the radiators those have been good since the 2008 buses. You will fall into the habit of checking the grill bolts every time you walk by one. warranty on cowl paint is 6 Mo. do you think they know they have a paint sticking issue? No matter how you prep that cowl paint comes back off in less than a year, so we left them with the primer look so far no rust issues. We are currently fighting Thomas on a mirror cracking the hood issue now on an anniversery model. All in all much better than others complained about on this site. I agree with Bassman.
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sambrutay
Advanced Member

United States
217 Posts

Posted - 07/02/2013 :  07:54:10 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Bassman


We have had some of the problems you listed.....but at least they don't have VT365's in them!!!!


AMEN BROTHER! Also, I know i've been in the office to long and my hands are getting soft, But go out and look at that unpainted fiberglass hood pull handle on last years model C2. Give it a pull and see if yoy don't have fiberglass strands in your hand. Itching yet?

Bruce
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Thomasbus24
Administrator

USA
3252 Posts

Posted - 07/02/2013 :  09:26:43 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by tigger2

warranty on cowl paint is 6 Mo. do you think they know they have a paint sticking issue? No matter how you prep that cowl paint comes back off in less than a year, so we left them with the primer look so far no rust issues.



http://www.davisbus.com/C2%20Body%20Warranty.pdf

Where does it say that? 6 months is for " corrosive atmospheric or road chemicals" Is that the card they are playing?

Paint adhesion is 2 years, prorated after that through year 5. Print this off and hand it to your dealer and ask them to explain this.

We cannot allow these bus makers to do this crap. These things are running nearly $100K now, the least they can do is put paint on them that doesn't fall off.
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Farmridge
Active Member

37 Posts

Posted - 07/02/2013 :  10:14:49 AM  Show Profile  Visit Farmridge's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Sounds like the same problems we are having with our International buses.
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Winn10
Active Member

20 Posts

Posted - 07/02/2013 :  4:30:46 PM  Show Profile  Visit Winn10's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Also, let me know if you have Mercedes engines with air compressors. There is a campaign coming for which we have a great procedure developed to prevent problems in the meantime.


id like to know more about this please, we have around 65 or so. thank you
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Bassman
Top Member

USA
505 Posts

Posted - 07/03/2013 :  03:41:22 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
We have 2009 and 2010 C2's 218" Wheelbase with Merecedes MBE906 and Hyd brakes...but we also have the air compressor (LR mount) for suspension and other accessories. We also have dual Carrier AC but I don't believe that is a factor. There are three harnesses which run down inside the frame rail on the left side and one of them is routed in such a way that it can rub on the upper corner of the air compressor. The first symptom we had was a loss of TCM voltage on a few buses and we overlayed a power wire to handle it. The next problem was more complicated. We had buses that would have a problem going all the way through regen (they kicked out and caused codes). Two of the wires that run through this harness control that seem to chaff run to the AMU (air management unit) located back on a crossmember which controls the exhaust flap on the back on the engine. This flap is activated along with the fan clutch during regen. One of these wires can be overlayed easily. The other is more complicated as it branches off and goes to a relay which controls the clutch fan during regen. I believe these are both red and blue wires. When these wires rub, it can give you some really goofy symptoms that are hard to diagnose.
In order to see the harness, lay down on a creeper and look up from the bottom where the large harnesses passes by the top of the air compressor (which is located LR side of engine by the trans mount). You really can't see it very well from underneath, but you can tell if the top of the compressor is pushing in on the harness. The only way to get access to the wires to really see the damage and fix the wires is to take the tire and the body panels off and jack up the body and remove the body mount (long job). In order to avoid doing more of these we inspected all of our buses and assigned each a priority number 1 through three based on the severity of the rub. Some are buses are number ones which are close but no rub. Number 2's are rubbing but not pressing in on the harness yet. Number three's are pressing hard on the harness (on some you can even see some wire damage). Then, we pulled in the number 3 buses (the worst ones)and with two guys working (one on top and one on the bottom, you can manuver the harness away and tie it up with large wire ties to keep it up and away from the compressor. It is not easy to get in there and tie up, but after you spend 4 or more hours pulling a body mount, you don't mind doing some PM work to prevent it in the future. One more note, you can activate the exhaust flap and the cooling fan with the laptop if you encounter a problem with these functions (but the exhaust flap function works backwards on the laptop). Since learning the process and the wiring destinations, we have successfully overlayed a problem bus and tied up the harness without pulling the body mount...but we really needed the knowlege we had from our days of cursing the first few! Good Luck!
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willism
Senior Member

United States
129 Posts

Posted - 07/03/2013 :  06:45:06 AM  Show Profile  Visit willism's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Anyone having issues with the manifold slip joint not sealing on the 6.7's?
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Wolf0r
Top Member

USA
2177 Posts

Posted - 07/03/2013 :  09:08:35 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bassman I'm gonna call you next time a C2 rolls in here LOL

“The good thing about science is that it's true whether or not you believe in it.”
Neil deGrasse Tyson
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Winn10
Active Member

20 Posts

Posted - 07/03/2013 :  7:54:20 PM  Show Profile  Visit Winn10's Homepage  Reply with Quote
thanks bassman. ours are 07 and 08 with engine mounted compressors. weve had several harnesses rub on the p/s pump fittings and the LF inner fender cause cranking, dying, and tranny issues. overlaying that harness is a SOB also. as far as vt365s go, I may go to hell now because of them. I never realized how different buses were from state to state til I found this forum, good find, thanks again

Edited by - Winn10 on 07/03/2013 7:55:13 PM
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tigger2
Advanced Member

USA
268 Posts

Posted - 07/08/2013 :  06:00:55 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
On the issue of wiring we have found on the Cat engine if the main harness was routed between the frame and the air line bundle the harness will rub though at the frame rail. to repair the best way is to remove the fender and the pdm from the fender unplug the connectors and the cab ground and a hidden ground in the frame rail and the whole harness can be pulled down and repaired. We then take loose the air lines and reinstall the harness behind the air lines to prevent future problems.
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