Read about the Great Fleets Across America
Subscribe

School Bus Fleet Magazine Forums
School Bus Fleet Magazine Forums
Home | Profile | Register | Active Topics | Members | Search | FAQ
 All Forums
 Professional Garage
 Enter Forum: Professional Garage
 DT466E... Service Questions
 New Topic  Reply to Topic
 Printer Friendly
Author Previous Topic Topic Next Topic  

Thomasbus24
Administrator

USA
3369 Posts

Posted - 03/08/2006 :  3:33:46 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hey all. I'm going to be taking on the preventative maintance on my employer's very small truck fleet. Having never worked on a 466E I've got a few questions.

Two International 4300's, one is a 1999 and one is a 2004, with DT466E engines are what it's about.

First off...Napa #1799...is that the correct oil filter?

What is the oil change refill capacity for these?

I've been told to always fill the new filter with oil and to unhook the cam sensor and crank the engine to prime the system before actually running the engine. Is that the proper way to avoid trouble? How long need I crank? (The electronic clusters have to do their 'spin dance' before they tell me anything ya know.

Am I correct in thinking that the cam sensor is in fact the one to the left of the alternator on the front cover with the quick-connect fitting?

Any advice on fuel filters and priming?

Alright I'm done! I'm used to the Cat 3126's so I just want to be sure that I'm not going to cause these 466's any harm.

Thanks in advance guys.

Edited by - Thomasbus24 on 03/08/2006 3:36:33 PM

Douglas
Active Member

USA
22 Posts

Posted - 03/09/2006 :  07:41:50 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Yes on the filters ...as far as starting I just start it as normal ..it might die and then it starts right up and stays running ...I wouldn't fill the filters first ....as for fuel I change the filter and there is a little valve that looks like a tire valve ...I depress it and there is a priming pump on tyop ..just press that until you see fuel come out of tire valve
Go to Top of Page

FORDSAREUS
Active Member

USA
16 Posts

Posted - 03/09/2006 :  5:14:16 PM  Show Profile  Visit FORDSAREUS's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Use IHC fuel filter and do what it says on the filter as to priming the system. must disconnect cam sensor, push primer pump until hard, crank eng for ,(however many seconds it says, i think 15), repeat 3x, plug in sensor, then start it up.
Go to Top of Page

ModMech
Top Member

USA
948 Posts

Posted - 03/10/2006 :  11:08:07 AM  Show Profile  Visit ModMech's Homepage  Reply with Quote
There is absolutely NO NEED to crank the engine over with the cam sensor unplugged to prime the OIL system, and I would suggest very strongly that one NOT DO THIS.

The oil system on all DTs from '94 to current holds 30 Qts (nominal) including the filter. Some engines (that we are never likey to see) do have smaller capacity oil pans, but they are *some* front-sump type pans (4x4 applications I think).

You SHOULD bleed the fuel system, but DO NOT pour any fuel into the filter, use the HAND PRIMER only, and on the newer engines, you MUST bleed the air fron the fuel rail at the fitting at the top front of the intake manifold (the fuel rail is an integral part of the intake manifold). Pump the primer with the schrader valve or "Compu-Check" fitting depressed to expel ALL AIR from the fuel sustem before you attempt to restart it. Also, remember to drain the filter housing and seperator/strainer bowl before removing the old filters. Do not forget to remove and clean the strainer.

If you want customer service, you NEED an International!
Go to Top of Page

second.flood
Advanced Member

USA
393 Posts

Posted - 03/10/2006 :  6:02:58 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Modmech, could you tell us where you got your priming info? My priming info is the same as FORDSAREUS. Any updated info would be appreciated, I have the latest ISIS...
Go to Top of Page

ModMech
Top Member

USA
948 Posts

Posted - 03/11/2006 :  1:50:53 PM  Show Profile  Visit ModMech's Homepage  Reply with Quote
The method that I have outlined is what ALL techs (dealer or otherwise) are beng trained on when they attend the latest FACTORY training for the I-6 engines.

The sole purpose is to ENSURE that ALL air is purged from the fuel system BEFORE the engine is turned over, and to prevent excessive wear on the starter, batteries and charging systems.

If you want customer service, you NEED an International!

Edited by - ModMech on 03/12/2006 5:30:57 PM
Go to Top of Page

LPSMECH
Senior Member

88 Posts

Posted - 03/16/2006 :  07:53:23 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The ISIS information I have for fuel filter replacement on I6E's says to:
1. Disconnect the injector harness at the valve cover.
2. Pump the hand primer to fill the fuel system until hard to depress.
3. Crank the engine for 15 seconds.
4. Repeat step 2.
5. Repeat step 3.
6. Repeat step 2.
7. Repeat step 3.
8. Repeat step 2.
9. When the hand primer remains hard to depress after cranking, reconnect injector harness to valve cover. Clear fault codes 513 and 514.
As for the oil filter, our policy, fill it up.



Go to Top of Page

ModMech
Top Member

USA
948 Posts

Posted - 03/17/2006 :  11:51:55 AM  Show Profile  Visit ModMech's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Let me restate what I posted previously....

1) Replace filters
2) Install fitting on bleeder (front top of intake manifold in the fuel rail)
3) Pump hand-primer until ALL air is purged from the rail
4) Remove fitting from bleeder port (either schrader or compu-check)
5) Engine is now completely bled of air.

Are there different procedures? Yes. Will they work? Yes. Are they the BEST? NO.

As a corporation, International Truck teaches that the electrical connectors are "good for" about 17 remove/install cycles. Clearly this becomes a BIG problem for high current/voltage circuits long before others (like the Injector circuits that are to be unplugged with each fuel filter service).

[edit = I CAN say]I cannot say why ISIS has the listed procedures, and I also cannot say exactly who at International developed the method that I listed, nor why it has not been uploaded to ISIS. I will do some checking in the next week or so, in an attempt to find an answer.

Please reference TSI letter #04-12-29 that outlines the procedure as I have listed it (generally). While this procedure refers specifically to "running out of fuel", it is the BEST procedure to use anytime the fuel filter or strainer are drained, as they MUST BE with every filter service.

I was asked how the new fuel filters can last so long (20,000 miles +). The reason is that the filter now "sees" ONLY the fuel entering the engine that will be burned, as opposed to ALL the fuel that the pump moves thru the system. If you look closely, you will notice that there is ZERO return fuel. So, when the engine uses 10 gallons/hour we now only filter that amount instead of filtering 40 gallons/hr and returning 30 to the fuel tank. The other very significant advantage is a huge reduction in the condensation inside the tanks during cold weather. Since no heated fuel is returned, there is no "cool down" period of the tanked fuel during which condensation can occur.

If you want customer service, you NEED an International!

Edited by - ModMech on 03/28/2006 3:36:01 PM
Go to Top of Page

Thomasbus24
Administrator

USA
3369 Posts

Posted - 06/19/2007 :  2:07:26 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Back with another question...

on these engines, is there a valve or something to make changing the coolant filter less messy? Like the 1970's, 80's and early '90's DT's had?
Go to Top of Page

IBTMech
Top Member

USA
973 Posts

Posted - 06/22/2007 :  6:40:17 PM  Show Profile  Visit IBTMech's Homepage  Reply with Quote
LPSMECH, that procedure is to be followed if you have had one or all of the injectors removed or the fuel supply rail drained for any reason.

for regular service, follow MODMECH's advice.

In our shop, we fill our fuel filters with pre-filtered fuel. It saves a lot of priming.

If it doesn't fit, FORCE it.
If it breaks, well, it needed replacing anyway.
Pullin' wrenches for 45 years.
Go to Top of Page

IBTMech
Top Member

USA
973 Posts

Posted - 06/22/2007 :  6:44:01 PM  Show Profile  Visit IBTMech's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Thomasbus24

Back with another question...

on these engines, is there a valve or something to make changing the coolant filter less messy? Like the 1970's, 80's and early '90's DT's had?


There's a check valve built into the coolant filter base which is supposed to stop the coolant flow though they rarely work.

Have the new filter ready and work fast and you may only lose a pint or two.

If it doesn't fit, FORCE it.
If it breaks, well, it needed replacing anyway.
Pullin' wrenches for 45 years.
Go to Top of Page
  Previous Topic Topic Next Topic  
 New Topic  Reply to Topic
 Printer Friendly
Jump To:
 


School Bus Fleet Magazine Forums © 2013 School Bus Fleet Magazine Go To Top Of Page
This page was generated in 0.16 seconds. Snitz Forums 2000