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Thomas Ford 85-16
Top Member
USA
4177 Posts |
 Posted - 03/11/2002 : 03:14:01 AM
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Hello! How much do bus batteries usually cost? I've been worried since sometimes the volts will be at 10 and when I turn it off and on again they'll be at 12... I'm not sure if the cold is influencing this or not. I'll try to get the battery name/type next time I charge it up... Thanks!
Stop at: http://www.buses.cjb.net
Forums: http://thebusboy.proboards2.com
Quote:
"Suburbia is where they cut down all the trees and name the streets after them." - A bumper sticker |
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wagonmaster
Top Member
USA
2298 Posts |
Posted - 03/11/2002 : 05:25:09 AM
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If you have reason to be concerned about your batteries condition, have them (it) load tested. Your repair shop should be able to do that for you.
Joe
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cowlitzcoach
Advanced Member
USA
325 Posts |
Posted - 03/11/2002 : 06:15:08 AM
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Battery cost is determined more by size and style more than anything else. I have a 1994 E-350 van/cut-away bus with the 7.3L with the batteries under the hood. For some reason Ford decided the very common Group 27 wasn't what they wanted. Ford designed the battery boxes so that no other battery of sufficient size will fit into the space. Bottom line, each of the batteries that fit cost almost 2X more than a Group 27 battery.
I have had very good luck with Interstate and NAPA United batteries. Both are always fresh when you go to purchase them, the companies always have stood behind their product the few times I have ever had any problems, and the price is always competitive.
Mark O.
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Brad Barker
Administrator
USA
874 Posts |
Posted - 03/11/2002 : 11:52:10 AM
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Busboy, don't be in a hurry to condemn your battery. There are many other reasons for what you say is happening . It sounds to me like you should take it to a reputable shop who can do a complete test on the starting, charging system and all wiring connections inbetween. It could be as simple as a corroded wire connector. Belt and pulley condition should be considered also.
Brad
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rockpik98
Active Member
USA
44 Posts |
Posted - 03/11/2002 : 12:26:42 PM
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BusBoy, How old is the battery and when did you clean all of the terminals? Are all of the wire connections to the starter, Alternator tight and free of corrosion and everything grounded properly? If make sure these little things get done.
Mikey |
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Thomas Ford 85-16
Top Member
USA
4177 Posts |
Posted - 03/11/2002 : 1:07:09 PM
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Thanks for all your advice. I'll try to check the alternator next time I'm out there or think of it.
Joe, keep in mind, this is not a district bus nor do I work for my district. By saying my shop should be able to fix it, it seems you're implying that I work for a district. It'd be nice.... hehehe 
Brad,
Thanks for the suggestions on what to check. however, being 13, having a limited income, having to pay for a school trip to Washington, I don't quite have the money to take it to a repair shop...let alone one that would fit a bus. Are there any "at-home" test or anything I could do to my bus?
Thanks again!
Stop at: http://www.buses.cjb.net
Forums: http://thebusboy.proboards2.com
Quote:
"Suburbia is where they cut down all the trees and name the streets after them." - A bumper sticker |
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jimbo20
Senior Member
USA
159 Posts |
Posted - 03/11/2002 : 2:42:26 PM
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CLEAN YOUR BATTERY TERMINALS, CHECK FOR LOOSE CONNECTIONS AT STARTER, CALL ME IN THE MORNING
JIMBO
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Silas J.
Top Member
USA
938 Posts |
Posted - 03/11/2002 : 3:07:00 PM
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Batteries......Great until they don't work. The only suggestion I have is you might try
filling the battery with some kind of fluid (it might be battery acid but I'm really not sure) that is in a blue pouring can.I really don't know what it is,but you cold try looking for it in an auto parts store or maybe somewhere like Tractor Supply.
Silas J.
97-12 It will outrun your bus.
Stop by http://geocities.com/bluebirdtwelve/
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kd4jfd
Top Member
USA
1168 Posts |
Posted - 03/11/2002 : 5:57:19 PM
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I suggest checking the tightness of your alternator belt, then look for broken, corroded or disconnected wires.I just paid $50.00 to get my alternator repaired, even thought the guy said that it wasn't bad. Not taking chances.
349 - A repair work in progress! |
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Joe Hartnett
Advanced Member
USA
359 Posts |
Posted - 03/12/2002 : 7:42:47 PM
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Bus Boy, If you have a GR31S battery it should cost you around $65 dollars (for a 650CCA). I pay $59 for mine. If you havent had any problems starting this winter I wouldnt worry about your batteries. A 10V. reading on a bus that cranks normaly indicates a faulty volt meter or connection to it(very common on IH's). Here are some tests. Get a volt meter and hook it up(red to pos,black to neg.) to your batteries. Does it give you the same reading as the in dash meter with the key in the run position? It should if the guage and wiring are correct. Now prevent the engine from starting(ground coil wire,pull out throttle stop,disconnect fuel solenoid). Now crank the engine for 15 seconds and watch your voltage reading on the test meter. If your batteries are 70 degrees the voltage should stay above 9.5V.(while cranking for 15 sec). If the batteries are cold the volt reading will be no lower than about 8.7V. . This is your basic load test. You could also take the batteries to an auto parts store that will test them for free. Now clean the batteries(baking soda) and treminals(wire brush). With the batteries disconnected clean the positive and negative terminals on the alternator. If you dont have a negative cable on your alternator I would recommend putting one on from the alternator to a clean shinny spot on the frame. Now remove the terminals on the magnetic starter switch(soleniod) and clean them with the wire brush. Do the same for the wires and cables on the starter and the ground cables to the engine,trans and frame. Protect all the cleaned cables with a coating of lithium grease. Now recheck your meter vs. guage readings. If there is still a difference put the test meter on the terminals on the back of the guage(the terminals should be clean and tight). If the reading is different(key on) the guage is most likely bad. If the reading is the same there and your volt guage is in the dash cluster try wiggling the connector on the back of the cluster while watching the guage(key on). If the guage changes clean the connector. When you remove terminals from studs make sure the backing nut on the stud is snug(tight with a twist of the wrist-not a pull of the arm). You may also want to check the body builder feed stud inside the bus. The batteries should read 12.4V.(75%charged) before any testing. A fully charged battery reads 12.6V. . Check your voltage reading at your batteries with the engine running. A normal reading is in the 13.8-14.2V. range. I was a year older than you when I got in the Bus Biz. That was 31 years ago. It has turned into a life sentence! They trusted me to drive the buses around the yard and I diddnt care if I got paid or not, I was ready and wanted to drive. The year I turned 18 they droped the age limit from 21 to 18 and I went right up and passed the test.
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Joe Hartnett
Advanced Member
USA
359 Posts |
Posted - 03/12/2002 : 7:51:22 PM
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If you dont use the bus much make sure the batteries are fully charged and remove the neg. cable. What model is the bus body,chassis,engine and alternator? What is the normal usage?
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Thomas Ford 85-16
Top Member
USA
4177 Posts |
Posted - 03/13/2002 : 1:38:49 PM
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Thank you soooo much. This bus is a 1985 Thomas Ford Conventional with an 8.2L Detroit. I'm not sure of the alternator, I'll have to check on that. It's getting warmer so I may be able to do these tests some time this weekend... We usually just drive this bus on the road every so often during the summer and run it every once in a while during the winter. Thanks again!!!
Stop at: http://www.buses.cjb.net
Forums: http://thebusboy.proboards2.com
Quote:
"Suburbia is where they cut down all the trees and name the streets after them." - A bumper sticker |
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UncleNeal
Senior Member
USA
153 Posts |
Posted - 03/18/2002 : 09:04:57 AM
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The different batteries we use range in cost from $ 49 to $ 115 each, depending on size, amps, and the number of months they are guaranteed. We have 6 and 12 volt systems.
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Thomas Ford 85-16
Top Member
USA
4177 Posts |
Posted - 03/18/2002 : 5:17:41 PM
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Once again...thank you for all of your help!!!  UncleNeal, what kind of buses are these 6Volts? Do they still make them?!
Stop at: http://www.buses.cjb.net
Forums: http://thebusboy.proboards2.com
Quote:
"The pacifist's task today is to find a method of helping and healing which provides a revolutionary constructive substitute for war."
-Vera Brittain |
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Thomas Ford 85-16
Top Member
USA
4177 Posts |
Posted - 03/24/2002 : 08:40:59 AM
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I remembered to look this time, and I found that the alternator is a "Crocce-Neville" or something like that. All the belts look fine and taut.
Stop at: http://www.buses.cjb.net
Forums: http://thebusboy.proboards2.com
Quote:
"The pacifist's task today is to find a method of helping and healing which provides a revolutionary constructive substitute for war."
-Vera Brittain |
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UncleNeal
Senior Member
USA
153 Posts |
Posted - 03/28/2002 : 11:55:37 AM
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Some answers to your questions: we do not have 6 volt systems on the buses, but we do have it on other vehicles we maintain here. For that alternator you were asking, the brand is "Leese-Neville" and they are very good for us. They have plenty of amps and can be rebuilt easily.
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wagonmaster
Top Member
USA
2298 Posts |
Posted - 03/28/2002 : 12:33:01 PM
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Uncle Neal,
I'd be interested to know what you have with a 6 volt system. The last one I remember seeing was on a '54 Chevy. Just curious....
Joe
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Batteries, ETC.
